Gramercy Cellars
Almost 300 miles south-east, inland of Washington State’s largest city Seattle, the wine region of Walla Walla is surely North America’s most remote wine region. Yet here, in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains, meaning irrigation is often required, and in a region with long days and cool nights, there’s the potential to make wines that impress with their ripeness, but with ample freshness.
It was this potential, seen at a tasting event in New York for the wines of Walla Walla, that tempted New York-based Master Sommelier Greg Harrington and his wife Pam to uproot and move to the heart of Washington State.
They started Gramercy Cellars in 2005, initially focussing on Rhône varieties. It was the Syrahs from the region that had taken Greg’s breath away at that tasting. But they’ve gradually expanded the range, with exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon alongside their Syrahs, Grenache, and Viognier.
They own three of their own estate vineyards, and have also built close relationships with the growers of the other grapes they source. They favour old vines, as well as organic grapes where possible, and in the cellar intervention is minimal, with extended ageing, with only minimal amounts of new oak.
These are real old-world-meets-new wines, that show impressive complexity and longevity. From a distant spot, they’re well worth discovering.
1
Sanford & Benedict Vineyard
The Sanford & Benedict vineyard, located in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, was planted in 1971 and is home to the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Santa Barbara County. The soils in the western Santa Ynez Valley have lower quantities of clay than other areas of the valley. They are comprised of Gazos clay loam, with 15% to 30% slopes, and Santa Lucia shaley clay loam, with 9% to 15% slopes in blocks 5, 6 and 10. The area receives foggy mornings and long, cool days, resulting in a longer growing season and lower yields.
2
Los Alamos Vineyard
Los Alamos lies between the cool Santa Maria Valley appellation to the north and the warmer Santa Ynez Valley appellation to the south. The region seems to have the best characteristics of both appellations. To date the Los Alamos Valley does not have a federally approved appellation and wines are labeled under the more generic Santa Barbara County designation.
Perched at an elevation of 800 ft (high for Santa Barbara), Los Alamos is characterized by its cool climate, intense California sunshine, and most importantly it’s sand and lime soils. This leads to intensely mineral and citrus driven Chardonnay, while the Pinot Noir exudes red fruit, lavender, and rosemary.
3
Bien Nacido Vineyard
Located 18 miles from the ocean in the Santa Maria Valley, the Bien Nacido Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vines grow in soils comprised of the Elder series and Shedd series. The Elder series consists of two blocks, found on flood plains and alluvial fans with an elevation range of 100 to 1,500 feet, with 9% to 15% slopes. The site experiences an average annual rainfall of 12 to 18 inches. Just uphill along the road is where the well-drained, Chamise clay loams of the Shedd series can be found. Slopes here are 30% to 45% and elevations range from 200 to 2,500 feet, with an average annual rainfall of 14 to 16 inches.
4
Zotovitch Vineyard
The terroir of Zotovitch Vineyard in Santa Barbara County is characterized by its diverse microclimates rich soil, creating an ideal environment for grape cultivation. The vineyard benefits from the cooling coastal breezes and ample sunshine, which contribute to the perfect balance of acidity and ripeness in the grapes. This unique combination of factors allows for the production of exceptional wines that showcase the true essence of the region. At Zotovitch Vineyard, the commitment to understanding and nurturing the terroir is evident in every bottle, offering a genuine taste of Santa Barbara's wine country.
Gavin Chanin brings a unique artistic touch to the world of wine by painting his own labels. Each label reflects his passion for both winemaking and art, transforming the bottle into a canvas that tells a story. This personal approach not enhances the aesthetic appeal of his wines but also connects consumers to the artistry behind each sip. Gavin’s labels are a testament to his creativity making every bottle a work of art in its own right.
