Mayacamas
Both fed up with the supercharged wines of California of the late 1990s and early 2000s – in Matt’s words, “Chardonnay was going through its Fat Elvis phase”, LIOCO was born out of a conversation between wine salesman Matt Licklider, and the wine director of Spago Beverley Hills, Kevin O’Connor. They were inspired by the wines of Europe, as well as the more understated bottlings from 1980s and California, and in 2005, they started LIOCO wines.
It’s now run and owned by Matt and his wife Sara, and they work with vineyards that span an astonishing 400 miles, across five counties of California, and focussing on exceptional vineyards for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Carignan. They look for organically farmed parcels, older vines, soils that are out of the ordinary, and heritage clones.
Their philosophy is to let these vineyards shine, with minimal intervention in the winery. Or as they’d put it, “trust in the raw material, and get out of the way”. As you’d expect from transporting grapes such huge distances, they use refrigerated lorries, and when they get to the winery, they carry out a very careful sorting. Beyond that, all techniques are used to retain terroir-definition, and the results from winemaker Drew Huffine are seriously impressive.
A real trailblazer in the movement towards a new style of Californian wine, when they started this style of wine was considered an anomaly. But for many who have followed, the Lickliders and what they’ve done at LIOCO are a real inspiration.
1
Sanford & Benedict Vineyard
The Sanford & Benedict vineyard, located in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, was planted in 1971 and is home to the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Santa Barbara County. The soils in the western Santa Ynez Valley have lower quantities of clay than other areas of the valley. They are comprised of Gazos clay loam, with 15% to 30% slopes, and Santa Lucia shaley clay loam, with 9% to 15% slopes in blocks 5, 6 and 10. The area receives foggy mornings and long, cool days, resulting in a longer growing season and lower yields.
2
Los Alamos Vineyard
Los Alamos lies between the cool Santa Maria Valley appellation to the north and the warmer Santa Ynez Valley appellation to the south. The region seems to have the best characteristics of both appellations. To date the Los Alamos Valley does not have a federally approved appellation and wines are labeled under the more generic Santa Barbara County designation.
Perched at an elevation of 800 ft (high for Santa Barbara), Los Alamos is characterized by its cool climate, intense California sunshine, and most importantly it’s sand and lime soils. This leads to intensely mineral and citrus driven Chardonnay, while the Pinot Noir exudes red fruit, lavender, and rosemary.
3
Bien Nacido Vineyard
Located 18 miles from the ocean in the Santa Maria Valley, the Bien Nacido Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vines grow in soils comprised of the Elder series and Shedd series. The Elder series consists of two blocks, found on flood plains and alluvial fans with an elevation range of 100 to 1,500 feet, with 9% to 15% slopes. The site experiences an average annual rainfall of 12 to 18 inches. Just uphill along the road is where the well-drained, Chamise clay loams of the Shedd series can be found. Slopes here are 30% to 45% and elevations range from 200 to 2,500 feet, with an average annual rainfall of 14 to 16 inches.
4
Zotovitch Vineyard
The terroir of Zotovitch Vineyard in Santa Barbara County is characterized by its diverse microclimates rich soil, creating an ideal environment for grape cultivation. The vineyard benefits from the cooling coastal breezes and ample sunshine, which contribute to the perfect balance of acidity and ripeness in the grapes. This unique combination of factors allows for the production of exceptional wines that showcase the true essence of the region. At Zotovitch Vineyard, the commitment to understanding and nurturing the terroir is evident in every bottle, offering a genuine taste of Santa Barbara's wine country.
Gavin Chanin brings a unique artistic touch to the world of wine by painting his own labels. Each label reflects his passion for both winemaking and art, transforming the bottle into a canvas that tells a story. This personal approach not enhances the aesthetic appeal of his wines but also connects consumers to the artistry behind each sip. Gavin’s labels are a testament to his creativity making every bottle a work of art in its own right.
